Secessionists...so basically Gustav Klimt.

Guten Morgen! Our groups been sharing a cold this past week, and apparently it's my turn to partake. A cold in June? Yeah, I know. I'm missing our tour of the Leopold, but if I don't take a nap I will spontaneous combust. Last week we studied the Secessionists and visited their building/museum/temple. But first background.

Everyone is generally knowledgeable about the impressionists. Van Gogh, Cezanne, Degas, Seurat, Monet, and it goes on. Their styles are not identical but can loosely be grouped together due to their similar use of color, light, etc. Probably less familiar is the movement known as Naturalism and Realism. As it sounds, these artist depicted things as they were. With political undertones, regular people were being capture plowing fields, etc. Millet and Courbet spearheaded those movements. Illya Repin from Russia dabbled in all three, really. You don't see distinct styles, but rather an overlay in Viennese art. Vienna art at the time was dominated by the classical modes of art--the Academy, the government, ancient conventions. With an abundance of foreign import, like impressionism and Art Noveau, a group of artists wanted to create art for arts sake. They felt art shouldn't be dictated by the Academy, as such, they succeeded forming the Secessionist movement.

Here's a quote that adequately describes their purpose: "...culminate in the recognition of the necessity of bringing artistic life in Vienna into more lively contact with the continuing development of art abroad, and of putting exhibitions on a purely artistic footage, free from an commercial considerations; of thereby awakening in wider circles a purified modern view of art; and lastly, of inducing a heightened concern for art in official circle." This group organized their own exhibitions, in a building of their own, called the Secession Building. It is a temple of sorts. It's architecture even reflects their reverence for art. Above the doorway, their beliefs are inscribed: "Der Zeit ihre Kunst, der Kunst ihre Freiheit." In English, "To every age it's art, to art's it's freedom." Secessionists believed in art changing over time.

Art Noveau influence on the side here. The outline is in green, which you can't really see that well. The edge of the roof also had this undulating edge, which was really cool.

Those are turtles under the urn! Turtles!

And a view of the whole building. The below photo is not mine, but taken from here.

Many Viennese disliked the building, since surrounding it are buildings of the Ringstrasse period, which conglomerated styles like Baroque, classicism, etc. It was sometimes called the glowing cabbage or Mahdi's tomb. Built by Joseph Maria Olbrich in 1897, the building was perfect for Secessionists exhibitions. One such exhibition dedicated to Beethoven as the ultimate artists featured a frieze by Gustav Klimt. Completed in two months, Klimt depicts the 9th symphony. We've seen Klimt before..

These were wall pieces done about ten years before the Beethoven Frieze. Note the realistic body shapes of the women. Though seemingly in line with the aims of the Academy, there's a sort of brilliance here. Klimt incorporates and layers symbols to tell a story in the tiny awkward space he was given. The frieze is different. Rather than filling every space with paint, there are large deliberate spaces of clean, empty wall. Characteristic of Klimt later and other Secessionist artists, you'll see more of this "space" I'm talking about in my next post about the Belvedere where I saw quite a bit of Klimt.

Klimt was a major force for the Secessionists movement. He was financially stable, wealthy even, famous, well-known. His exhibitions also featured newer, less renowned artists, which is quite decent of him. While breaking away from the established Academy would have been easier for Klimt as an established, famous, wealthy artists, I feel it would be harder, riskier for less established artists. In my mind, I am less impressed with Klimt's seccession due to his wealth. Financial wealth allows for creative freedom.

This year is the 150th birthday of Klimt. Every decent museum is doing an exhibition of his work. The Kunsthistorisches even built a temporary bridge to view the above paintings. Likewise, the Secessionists building build a ramp to view his frieze better. A frieze, just in case you weren't sure, is a border of either sculpture or fresco that is decorates and lines an object, generally a room at the ceiling, or a Grecian temple, or a coffin. His frieze was originally meant to be destroyed but a Jewish art lover purchased the frieze. Heavily damaged and repossessed during WW2, the frieze took around 10 years to be restored. It is now displayed in the basement rather than it's original placement. Though a fresco, Klimt used other mediums such as gold, shells, etc. We were not allowed to take pictures within the room due to our close proximity to the fresco. So I went a Googelin'.

This is what the room looks like without the platform (Image from here). And now a closer look at each wall. If you want to listen to Beethoven's 9th symphony which the frieze is derived from, click here.

"Klimt's Frieze was based on Wagner's interpretation of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony, celebrating humankind's 'struggle on the most magnificent level by the soul striving for joy', reached in the unification of all arts. The fresco, beginning at the left, forms a cohesive narrative.

On the first wall [above] we encounter the Floating Genii, gliding female figures symbolizing 'Longing for Happiness'. They are followed by Suffering Humanity, a naked kneeling couple and a standing girl. Suffering Humanity offer their pleas to the Knight in Shining Armour, who stands for the external driving forces. The female figures behind him, Compassion and Ambition, represent internal motivation moving him to take up the fight for happiness."

"The short end wall [above] is devoted to the Hostile Forces, the giant Typhoeus and his daughters, the three gorgons. Above them are Sickness, Madness and Death. To Typhoeus' right are Lasciviousness, Wantonness and Intemperance with the cowering Nagging Care beyond. The yearnings and desires of humankind fly past them."

 [The dress worn by the standing figure, Poetry, is an actual dress created and designed by Klimt's lover at the time. She held salons in Vienna and was a famous fashion boutique owner. Her designs were breathable since no corset was worn and decorated with patterns and beautiful fabric. ]

"On the final wall [above] the yearning for happiness finds appeasement in Poetry (the figure with lyre). An empty segment in the frieze, where a wall opening revealed a view of Klinger's statue in the 1902 exhibition, is followed by The Arts: five female figures representing the 'ideal realm', a place of 'pure joy, pure happiness, pure love’. The frieze concludes with a choir of angels 'singing in paradise' and the powerful image of a kissing couple."

**Please note the words in quotes are not mine. My comments are bracketed by these thingies: []. The text is from an article I found on the Tate website. It details what our tour guide told us which I can't remember in full detail. The images, likewise, are not mine. I found them here.**

 I was interested in that the female figures are distorted in a way. Even the ones representing things other than death and envy, the female physique, and the man's for that matter, is odd. I asked our tour guide, why, when Klimt could obviously render the human form realistically, would he choose to do so in that manner? It was deliberate, and I want to know why. Our tour guide wasn't helpful so when I get home, I plan on doing some research.

After the Secessionist building, we ventured over to two buildings that Wagoner, an architect I've mentioned before who built the Art Noveau Kirche am Steinhof for the psychiatric hospital, and Klimt collaborated on. In front of them is where the Naschmarkt, the famous food market with restaurants and food stalls lining the street for blocks followed by the flea market (a freakin' fabulous flea market). People actually live there! Which is why we couldn't go in and take pictures, but how cool is that to live in one of the below buildings?

Compare those Art Noveau inspired buildings to the baroque one below. The entire street looks like this building below and other neo-classical buildings, then you have these two buildings with flowers and plants and gold all over them. It was a neat contrast.

Tomorrow, I'll write a post detailing my visit to the Belvedere where we saw more Klimt and other Secessionists. Again, we weren't allowed to take pictures within so I'll talk about a few paintings. Oh, an original version of the famous David painting of Napoleon was in there! This one...

 

from here.

And as I promised, I snagged a few opera pics from my friends.

 

First one: from Hannah Osbourne, Second one: from Tenzin Dekyi

Tales of the U-Bahn

I thought I'd write a brief post this evening about some things that always seem to be present or happen on the subway. Like taxi drivers, the subway has universal characteristics. There's always strange, forbidding on the subway. There's going to be a homeless person with a dog. And always someone on drugs. This is not unique to Austria, but just some things anyone riding on a subway will see. So lets start a list?

1) Middle school kids on a field trip. It's best to avoid kids in large groups on the subway. There's something about an inclosed space that makes it the best place to go crazy. They will also bump you on purpose because it's fun.
2) Don't make eye contact with people you'd rather not talk to. Especially at night. Just don't. Stay with someone. Glare, it helps. 
3) Sometimes these people yell German gibberish. Again, don't make eye contact. Dead pan facial expression.
4) The large group of foreigners talking loudly.
5) It's best to not try and drink your soda when the U-bahn is breaking. It will spill all over your face, your arms, and your clothes. Eating is likewise best for a stable environment. I spilled pastry filling on my jeans yesterday after I forgot to lean as it was stopping and flew into this poor lady.
6) You will knock people around. There'll be awkward boob-grazes. You will most deifnintely step on someone's toes. You will have a hard time standing. Don't be cool and act like you don't need the handrails. (I keep thinking I've got my balance down on the subway. False. I keep flying into people, but I'm too stubborn to hold onto something)
7) If an elderly individual boards the subway, and there's no seat, you get up. It's just the right thing to do.
8) Even if their child is ADORABLE, do not smile and wave at other people's children on the U-bahn. It creeps parents out. Even if you just love children, they don't know you, and they honestly just want to get home.
9) Always always always double check which train you're getting on and which way it's going. Even if you do it every single day, twice a day, three times a day. I go the same way to school every morning so when I'm not going to school, I often find myself on the way there because I just always hop on the red line. If you're tired, triple check.

I have two really awesome things to post about, the Secessionists building and the Belvedere museum that will be long with tons of pictures. And lots of art history. Tomorrow we're going to the Leopold! So I guess, that'll be another long one. Guten Abend aus Österreich (Good night from Austria)!

Praha

Guten Abend! I just got back in from our evening excursion..a trip to the Opera house! It was my first opera, and I secretly hoped for a Pretty Woman moment. The insanely beautiful customs and stunning sets were more to my taste. I was a little thrown off that a play taking place in Scotland in the 16th century would be in Italian..though it is opera. The lovers both died which is only appropriate. We had excellent seats. In a box! I enjoyed getting dressed up and taking pictures with everyone. Once I steal some pictures from my friends, I'll upload some.

This past weekend our little group traveled to Prague. We loaded onto this tiny bus and headed over to the Czech Republic. You forget how much being able to read the signs and understand some of the language affects your ability to get around. Our hotel was close to downtown but still in an interesting..part. Prague is dirty. I mean, most cities are dirty. But Prague was really dirty. I didn't form a great opinion of the place. Since I missed the walking tour due to an upset stomach, I also missed my chance to learn more about it. Waking up from a nap feeling better, the hotel served us dinner, then the soccer enthusiasts headed out to the square to watch the England v. Sweden game. Projected on a large screen with beer and food booths all around, when we arrived nearly 60% of the people there were already rather inebriated. For instance, walking past a gentlemen, maybe in his 60s, he started screaming and tore his shirt off in a hulk-like fashion, revealing the largest English flag I've ever seen tattooed on his back. The groups of English boys in front of us were rather rowdy but the guys in our group noticed and made sure we weren't approached. They were also quite protective, which is often a relief.

The clock tower. The other side has this magnificent, intricate clock. The bells were beautiful, sounding some spiritual impetus every half hour.

Our very dark faces, but at least there's proof we were there! Heather, Sarah, then me.

The next morning we walked to the Mucha museum! We were not allowed to take pictures, which was sorely disappointing. My previous roommate, a talented artist herself, adored Mucha. She had these vintage posters of his illustrative work; I remember waking to such pictures for an entire year. It's hard to see such things and not fall in love. Though I've taken more art history classes than I can count, I've never been in a class that studies Mucha. Art Noveau is lumped in there with Pre-Raphaelites and Art Deco even (that last one was hard to swallow).

Mucha was born in the Czech Republic, though he didn't live there for a long period of time until later in his life. His ultimate dream was to write the great Slavic epic. If you're familiar with Eastern European history, you'll know the Slavic region was always dominated by another power. If not the Mongols, Russia. If not Russia, Austria-Hungary. Yet despite the constant of foreign rule, the Slavs developed a distinct character. Mucha in later times did political posters that speak to this. His lustrous career began one Christmas where a friend frantically called him, begging him to do the poster for Sarah Bernhardt's Gismonda. Painted up all over Vienna in January, Mucha became a sensation. Having as little time as he did to do the poster, Mucha had to rely on his instincts. I'm very glad he did. Sarah was so pleased with his poster, she offered him a 6 year contract to do her play posters. The posters are what remain of her legacy.

A close up detail of Gismonda..image from here

 After the Mucha museum, the girls headed off to the flea market for some shopping, a good lunch at a tavern, then a boat cruise.

 I wish I had more to say about Prague other than it was dirty. Saturday evening was spent at a club, which I've discovered really isn't my thing. I prefer a nice dinner, a good movie, and an early bedtime. We were celebrating Hannah's 21st birthday so I did try and be a good sport. 2:30 was about as late as I could handle. I was relieved to be on the way to Wien the next morning.

Schatzkammer and the Freud Museum

Before Prague, we visited the Freud Museum. Seeing as we're studying Freud at the moment, it seemed appropriate. Freud was convinced his notoriety would exempt him from serious damage from the annexation of Austria and Germany; to his dismay, he was questioned within a few days. After a scare, his followers raised enough money for him to purchase the ability to flee the country. Leaving for London with all their belonging, the Nazi's quickly seized his rather large flat. It rooms were filled with Jews before their deportation to concentration camps. It was eery and disturbing to walk those rooms knowing who inhabited them and what their fate was. Dually, Freud himself living there added another dimension of oddity.

 His game chest.

A self portrait. Always revealing of one's perception of one's self.

 His original office sign.

 His famous hat. Previously, a visiting Freud enthusiast nicked the hat from the museum. A few years later it was shipped back from America. Supposedly, the thief suffered great guilt and went to see, ironically, a psychoanalyst, whom convinced him giving back the hat would alleviate his guilt. It did.

Freud collected small Grecian and Roman statuettes. He called them his "dirty gods" and after acquiring a new one would carry it around with him everywhere. At meals, it would be placed in front of him, and silence was expected so he could adequately contemplate.

His parlor

In front of his desk, he hung a mirror. What a startling and symbolic thing to do. The tour guide mentioned his brief addiction to cocaine. Being curious as to it's effects, Freud ordered cocaine from Germany and experimented on himself. It's debated if he ever stopped, but he freely suggested it to his friends. A fellow colleague who was actually addicted to morphine was convinced by Freud to try cocaine to help him stop taking morphine. The colleague became addicted to both, and died from substance abuse.

After a quick tour, we headed for the Schatzkammer. Originally, we were to have no tour of the treasury, but the tour guide from the Kunsthistoriches museum was enchanted with our group and offered to do a tour. I was rather chagrined since I had planned to do this by myself, and more so as she marched by rooms of the biggest diamonds, opals, rubies, and emeralds I had ever seen. Consistent with her last tour, she had her own opinions about what we would find fascinating.

 These are the crown and scepter of the Austria-Hungary Empire. Crafted in the 1630s in Prague, the above jewels were splendid.

Various robes. The embroidery on this was exquisite.

The coronation robe and sword. Sword dates back to Roman times. There were numerous tabards, a kind of smock for the senschels of the rulers some dating back to the 16th century. They were stunning.

This was a gift to Emperor Napoleon upon the birth of his son. There were golden bees all over the cradle, which were ancient symbols of the French Merovingian ruling line. The eagles were also symbolic but I zoned out while she was talking. In my defense, diamonds the size of my fist were in the next room. I could see the glitter!

See? Pretty.

This robe was created in the 10th century. I couldn't believe what I was hearing!

This is the Holy Roman Empire Crown. Created the middle ages, the stones are not faceted. Several panels depict Christian scenes etched in gold. It was beautiful.

 The jewelry was breathtaking. To possess such wealth is mind boggling. I think could manage however. In a fitting gesture, the schatzkammer is within the oldest part of the Hofburg, where the kings that wore such jewels lived.